[Metal Ken]

Originally Posted by darren

Here's a little secret: TonePros bridges still wobble around like mad. TonePros only locks the bridge to the studs. The studs themselves still slop around inside the threaded inserts. This is easily remedied by using a couple of jam nuts on the studs to lock them down to the inserts once you've got your action set. (I'll post photos of my new setup later.)

They're still way more solid than a regular TOM. F.Ex, the saddles ride a screw thats bolted on the ends and doesnt move around, and has a phillips head screw to adjust it instead of standard (not that it helps it stay in tune, but its much easier to adjust). That in itself, plus the fact its bolted to the studs improves it tremendously. If i can bolt the studs in place, then that just adds something else.

[dpm]

Drew, I'm 100% sure the Gotoh/Wilk is a retrofit for the Am Std..
If you're still running a Wilkinson roller nut (not sure how old your Am. Std. is) change to the LSR. The LSR is more reliable and less limited to string gauge, and is a direct retrofit. Well worth the change

edit: Am. Std's have standard nuts. I'm a retard. Get a GraphTech Trem Nut and string trees.

[Nik]

Originally Posted by Kevan

Nik- DPM's advice about taking it to a REAL tech is a great idea if you don't want to get into it yourself. If you let us know what part of the country/world you're in, maybe one of us can steer you towards a reputable, trem-friendly, guitar tech.

Thanks, but it doesn't matter right now. I'm gonna hold off on this bit of modding for a little while. In the meantime, my guitar will stop being new (wow what a crappy way to put that) and I won't feel as sorry I suppose taking it appart. I'll probably practice doing set-ups on my old guitar in the meantime so I don't screw up on the new one.

In any case, I live in the Southwest US, if that's of any help.

One last question:

When you say that those studs keep the guitar's tuning more stable, do you mean that the guitar simply goes out of tune faster OR the guitar goes out of tune after you use the trem ie dive-bomb, etc. ?

EDIT: that tremol-no thing looks really cool. The main thing I like about it is how you can instantly change tuning.

[Metal Ken]

Tune relative to divebombing & Other trem work.

[Vince]

Originally Posted by Nik

In any case, I live in the Southwest US, if that's of any help.

Arizona? Nevada? New Mexico?

[Nik]

Originally Posted by desertdweller

Arizona? Nevada? New Mexico?

New Mexico.

[Kevan]

Nik- I don't know any techs in the NM area, but I'm sure someone on here can get you hooked up.
Hell, I'd mail my guitar somewhere before I let a GC guy touch it. LOL

Tuning stability relies on many factors- quality of strings, quality/length ofsprings, trem component quality, knife edge material/quality/ post material/quality, type of lubrication, etc. There are a lot of variables in there as well. For the most part, you don't want anything to move (like the trem posts). The less movement between the parts, the less likely the trem will 'shift' or not function properly (not bring you back in to tune).

There are some guys out there that swear that a fully floating trem can never be brought back to a perfect zero after a dive (or raise). To them, I offer any of my guitars for their inspection.

Just to clarify: The Tremol-No won't "instantly change your tuning", but it can instantly give you a hardtail/fixed bridge....so you can change the tuning yourself.

[Drew]

Dan, I've actually got the graphite nut installed, and I still can't hold tune, lol. I'll try the graphite trees,though, as the G's the worst offender, so that could be part of the reason...

-D

[Nik]

Originally Posted by Kevan

There are some guys out there that swear that a fully floating trem can never be brought back to a perfect zero after a dive (or raise). To them, I offer any of my guitars for their inspection.

Just to clarify: The Tremol-No won't "instantly change your tuning", but it can instantly give you a hardtail/fixed bridge....so you can change the tuning yourself.

Ah OK, misunderstood a bit. I'm surprised no one has made a modeling amp that can shift the pitch if your guitar in real time so basically you can dial in different tunings just by turning a knob...

As for the trem I'm getting, how many dive bombs, etc. can I count on before I lose tune? Or is one enough?

[Kevan]

Originally Posted by Nik

Ah OK, misunderstood a bit. I'm surprised no one has made a modeling amp that can shift the pitch if your guitar in real time so basically you can dial in different tunings just by turning a knob...

They do, kinda. It's called the Digitech Whammy Pedal XP-100.

Originally Posted by Nik

As for the trem I'm getting, how many dive bombs, etc. can I count on before I lose tune? Or is one enough?

It depends on how hard you are on your trem, how often you play the guitar and for how long. And.....string gauge, picking attack, and about a dozen other factors.

The one concern that should be addressed is what is called "ovaling" of the trem post holes. What happens is that your unlockable trem posts slop around in there and 'bang' the inserts that are in the wood of the body. The more times they get banged, the more they begin to oval the hole. This can happen in a week, or it can happen over the course of 5 years. Nonetheless, it needs to be addressed and corrected. Locking trem posts (or the retrofit kit from IbanezRules.com) is the best/cheapest way to correct this.

I wouldn't worry too much about it at first, but it's something that needs to be taken care of ASAP.

The first thing you should do when you get the guitar is clean & lube the post notches and knife edges.
Yes- even before you tune it.