Quote:
Originally Posted by darren
If you're not good at the tech/setup stuff, i'm wondering if you're also winding the strings around the tuner posts properly. With a locking trem, it's not as critical, but as soon as you go with a non-locking nut, you have to be pretty meticulous with how you wind your strings onto the tuner posts. You say your guitar has locking tuners, but the SC-607B didn't come that way from the factory. Did you (or someone else) add them? If so, what kind are they?
Assuming you have non-locking tuners, i'll advise on a "best practice" for how to wind your strings on the tuners:
First off, you shouldn't have too much slack on the strings before you start winding them. You also don't want to have too little string going around the posts. You want to have enough string to go around the post 3-5 times. Any more, and you end up with too much string to fit on the post without overlapping (more on this later) and too little, and the string won't have a solid enough "grip" on the tuner post.
The rule of thumb i've always used is to put the palm of my hand perpendicular to the fretboard at the fifth fret (think "karate chop" to the fretboard, across the fifth fret) under the new string, then put the string through the tuning post and bend it. Pull gently on the string from the tuner just across the nut to keep it in place, then start winding up the slack.
Your first wind around the post should go UNDER the hole (and the remainder of the string coming through) and the rest of the windings should go OVER the hole. What this does is squeeze the string where it comes through the tuner post.
You should also be very careful to wind the strings in a very methodical and precise way, i.e. no overlapping windings. As soon as you start overlapping, things get sloppy, and there's all kinds of extra tension and slack around the tuner post... tension and slack that can cause slippage as the strings get played in.
As the string gets close to playable tension, make sure it's sitting properly in the nut slot and bridge saddle. Keep tuning. It also helps if you change one string at a time, rather than removing them all and re-stringing from scratch, because it keeps the neck at tension. Taking all the strings off causes it to "relax" a bit and it may take longer for the tuning and intonation to settle back to normal after stringing up.
If you're careful when you're winding the strings and you do a good job of stretching the strings in, your tuning should NOT slip on a fixed-bridge guitar.
But if your guitar DOES have locking tuners, this is all moot, because locking tuners completely eliminate the need to have multiple wraps around the tuner posts. Pull the string taut through the tuner, lock it down and tune up and stretch. No extra slack needed.
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The guitar comes with Schaller Locking tuners from the factory actually.
But thanks for the help.
Put on a 09 set today. Broke the High E string while strecting the string. Broke off right after the tuner actually, must have been a crappy string or something..
Gonna buy another tomorrow. only got a few spears for 010 sets...
but anyway thanks for help dudes. really remindes me what a great forum this is
The problem seems to be solved. the strings stay in tune now. So will be strecting the strings when i change them from now on.. kinda embarsing that I didnt think of that. been playing for like 7 years now. When I think back I used to do it on my gibson Flying V, but after I got my frist sevenstring I started to take the guitar to shop insted of doing it myself because I never got the tremolo system right. But anyway must say I absolutely love 09's on this guitar. It feels an plays just great, smiular to my freinds 1527 ibanez with 010's.